The History and Characteristics of Invisible Settings

This solid platinum estate engagement ring features a stunning 1-carat central round brilliant diamond set in a gorgeous four-prong mounting. Along the shank, 24 princess-cut diamonds are embedded side-by-side in an invisible setting. Developed in France in the mid-1800s, the invisible setting gives the appearance of a floating gemstone mosaic. Set side by side, the stones are notched by expert jewelers and snapped into place within a wire framework hidden beneath the surface of the mounting. The effect is dazzling, as the light is free to emit greater radiance across unhindered stones. In 1933, Van Cleef & Arpels, the famed Paris maison, patented their exclusive invisible setting, called the Mystery Setting™. The Mystery Setting™ is most often used to create daring color, with sapphires, rubies, and emeralds set in VC&A's larger showstopping pieces, such as in their beautiful flower brooches, stunning necklaces and bracelets, and ornate earrings. In bridal jewelry, the invisible setting is used in two ways. First, as seen in the pictured engagement ring, as a sensational way to showcase princess- or baguette-cut accent stones. Second, the invisible setting allows several smaller diamonds to appear as one large diamond, as seen in this lovely diamond and yellow sapphire halo ring. Invisible settings are one of the most difficult mountings to make, and they are one of the most susceptible to potential loss of stones. The delicacy of this mounting makes it a poor choice for brides who work regularly with tools or heavy equipment. You will want to remove an invisible set ring before working in the garden, doing heavy housework, or using tools, especially hammers. If your stones do loosen or pop out, be sure to choose an expert jeweler with experience in invisible settings to examine and repair your ring. Of course, it is this same delicacy that makes an invisible set engagement ring a most stunning choice for the bride who wants sophisticated lines and lots of sparkle. Be sure that you purchase your ring from a reputable dealer in engagement rings, and examine it carefully with your fingers. The surface should be smooth and even. If there are any rough surfaces or if any of the stones are uneven, keep looking. Your perfect engagement ring will be able to withstand the tests of time, so don't settle for poor construction.